19 Apr Theresa visits Le Toiny, April 2024

My holiday in January seemed a very distant memory, waking up most days to rain and despite my best efforts to turn the heating off on April 1, it was still on on May 1st! I was really looking forward therefore to enjoying some Caribbean warmth on a familiarisation trip to Le Toiny which had been in the planning since last October.

People often ask me the best route to St Barths and there are two options really. If clients are happy to spend one or two nights in Antigua, they can avoid the 3 hour stopover in Antigua airport and break the journey feeling revived and on the correct time zone taking the daily afternoon flight to St Barths (just 50 minutes flying time). The more cost effective way and the route which enables guests to arrive the same day without feeling too exhausted is Air France via Paris, so I left Heathrow bleary eyed at 6.20am and connected with the 10.15am departure to St Maarten (9 hours). On arrival in St Maarten we were whisked through the airport thanks to the super-efficient services of St Barth R Way – definitely recommended for fast track! The cheerful Melissa greeted us airside and not only did she whisk us through passport control and have our baggage collected, she managed to get us on an earlier flight to St Barths. Winward Air have these air hops down to a fine art and after just 15 minutes, we arrived in St Barthelemy, reputed to be one of the most exclusive destinations on earth.

I had visited once before and what struck me back then was the lack of pretention so I was excited to be back, not least as it was a balmy 28 degrees…

Le Toiny’s driver was waiting for us and within fifteen minutes the welcoming team showed us to our cottages, each with private pool and spacious deck. Resisting the urge to lie on the huge dreamy bed, I swiftly made my way back to the main lobby and enjoyed a welcome glass of Perrier Jouet at the Pink Bar watching the sun go down. The 3.15am wakeup call was long forgotten.

Monday was quite a relaxing day (definitely by normal standards) starting with a hike to work up an appetite, delicious healthy breakfast including detox juice and a morning date with the inbox but on the beautiful deck…I am sure it helped with creativity.

The suites at Le Toiny are so large and homely with beechwood floors, airy linens and an abundance of mirrors, a hallmark of designer Bea Osborne. I can imagine many guests enjoy just spending quality time relaxing by their pool soaking up the spectacular ocean views and enjoying the wildlife – tortoise and iguanas are often spotted at Le Toiny. I was in a Signature suite which afford the most privacy but the Spirit suites provide a lighter and more contemporary alternative benefitting from the Atlantic breeze.

Lunch was calling so I made my way to reception where the handsome team ferry guests on demand to the beach club in stylish land cruisers. The views were dramatic and one really got the sense of place that is Le Toiny, tucked away on the rugged south eastern corner of the island. On arrival we had the pleasure of meeting Mandy Vere Nicol, one of the owners who has a passion for pink and was choosing this season’s collection for her beautiful boutique. Mandy and husband Charles are often in resort enhancing the guest experience with their stories and knowledge of this intriguing island, having previously been involved with Ile de France, now Cheval Blanc of course.

It’s hard to describe the cool vibe of Le Toiny beach club, it’s low key but classy and was busy with both hotel guests and families who were treating themselves to the delights of chef Eric Desbordes, a protégé of Jean Georges Vongerichten. More beautiful, smiling staff made the experience easy by suggesting a selection of sharing plates which were delicious. The cool ambience lasted well into the afternoon before replete bodies made their way to the comfy sun loungers on the beach.

That evening we had booked Le Ti cabaret which was unique and entertaining if a little risqué! The venue opens at around 9pm and tasty food is served in between the cabaret. I swore that I would actually never eat again having witnessed the perfect physiques of the dancers but it’s hard to resist a tiramisu! After show extravaganzas include guests dressing in costume and performing their own theatre, the scene of much hilarity though I am not sure Edith Pilaf would have approved.

The following morning, I had the best yoga session of my life. I am not a fan of the practice (much more a pilates gal) but honestly I felt like a different person afterwards and vowed to go once a week on my return. The instructor was encouraging and engaging, gearing the class to the different levels of her participants. It was a highlight.

That afternoon, we were in for another treat as we made our way to the port to embark a yacht for our afternoon cruise around the island taking in Colombier Beach, Shelloma Beach and disembarking back in Gustavia in time for some shopping. Most people expect the retail experience to be luxury brands only but there are plenty of one off boutiques with affordable and one off kaftans, beautiful beachwear and jewellery. I managed to resist unlike some of my industry colleagues.

The final evening was cocktails on what had become “our spot” at the Pink Bar and staff by then knew each of us by name and rather worryingly knew our tipple! Always the sign of a good hotel me thinks…

The open kitchen in the main hotel restaurant creates a good vibe and tempting aromas and as it was our last night in paradise it had to be the mahi mahi with succulent coconut rice for me. I relished the tastes knowing that the following night I would be at the mercy of Air France. Of course Le Toiny is part of Relais & Chateau so the gastronomic experience is something to savour.

On the last morning before leaving this magical place we did a quick visit to two of the new Le Toiny Villa collection – Villa Nureyev and Villa over the Ocean are both close to the hotel but very different in style, one classical Caribbean whilst the latter is modern and more open plan. Guests staying at the villas can avail of all the Le Toiny facilities including breakfast at the hotel and use of the beach club.

Alas it was time to head back to the airport, grateful for a wonderful few days. St Barths is not generally on people’s radar in the same way that other Caribbean islands are but I would encourage you to propose it especially with the great offers for summer months. It’s a hidden gem and far from the pretentious party island it is sometimes reputed to be.

It’s always good to come home but it’s still raining and the heating is still on!

To make an enquiry at Le Toiny, please contact reservations@letoiny.com quoting ‘Highlife’

See a video of Le Toiny here